Epaves Bay, Great Northern Peninsula, Newfoundland, Canada
L'Anse aux Meadows
Early 11th century (a 2021 study's best fit is the year 1021)
George Decker, a local man, leads Helge Ingstad to a line of grassy ridges at the northern tip of Newfoundland. Digging from 1961 to 1968 turns the ridges into sod buildings, a furnace, and a handful of Norse objects. A study published in 2021 dates three cut trees to a best-fit year of 1021. The open question is what those buildings were for, and what name, if any, the sagas already had for them.
Why this is extraordinary
In 1960 a Norwegian writer, Helge Ingstad, was searching the coast from New England northward for a place where Norse sailors might have landed. Parks Canada's culture page says that at L'Anse aux Meadows a local man, George Decker, led him to a group of overgrown bumps and ridges. Ingstad's wife, the archaeologist Anne Stine Ingstad, directed the digging that followed. The same page says the two of them led an international team, from Norway, Iceland, Sweden, and the United States, through the next eight years. A later brochure counts seven expeditions between 1961 and 1968, and adds Canadian archaeologists to the roll.
What those seasons recorded, in the culture page's account, were the lower courses of eight buildings. Walls and roofs had been sod over a timber frame, of the kind used in Iceland and Greenland around the year 1000. Out of the rooms came a bronze ring-headed pin, a stone the page calls an oil lamp, a soapstone spindle whorl, a bone needle, a small gilded brass fragment, a whetstone, a great deal of iron slag, and a large number of iron boat nails. Parks Canada's later map of the same ruins sorts the eight into three halls, smaller huts, and a smelting hut across the brook, and it reads one lean-to as a place where a boat was repaired. Birgitta Linderoth Wallace gives the halls their sizes, from the Parks Canada excavations that followed the Ingstad seasons. A review of the Ingstads' book dates that later digging to 1973–1976. Wallace reads the whole terrace as a winter base.
A 2021 study in Nature, Wallace among the authors, reports a tighter clock. Cosmic rays in the year 993 left a spike of radiocarbon in the air, and trees took that spike into a single ring. In three pieces of wood from this terrace, cut with metal tools and still carrying the outer growth edge, the study's best match places the felling in 1021. Other years still pass the study's own test for one piece or another. The study argues that the agreement of three trees on one year is the surprising part.
What the place was is a separate argument, and it is more than one argument. Wallace argues for a winter base and a gateway, the sagas' Straumfjord, with grapes and lumber gathered farther south, where butternuts grow. Helge Ingstad's reading, as a review of the Ingstads' book states it, is that this was Leifsbúðir, Leif Eriksson's camp, and the main settlement. A sun sentence in the saga of the Greenlanders has been turned into latitudes that sit south of this terrace. How many winters people stayed, and why the halls were left, are published on more than one side. So is a second Newfoundland point, at Point Rosee in the Codroy Valley, tested in 2015 and 2016 and written up on 8 November 2017. The find lists for this terrace do not include a rune. Stones read as runes, farther south and west, are weighed in the Runestones in America room.
Why it matters
If the terrace is Leif Eriksson's camp, or Vinland itself, the sagas and the ruins are the same story, and the grapes in the text have to be explained at this latitude or explained away. If it is a gateway and a winter base, Vinland is a wider coast, and this is the door. If the stay was a few years, Greenland's small population is part of the reason the door closed. If it was longer, the thin middens have to be read again. A second site at Point Rosee would have changed the map. The 2017 report is that side's later account of the same ground.
The pin is the cluster of hall remains above Epaves Bay, on the Strait of Belle Isle. UNESCO describes eight timber-framed turf buildings, three of them dwellings, one a forge, and four workshops. Wallace groups the same eight into three dwelling complexes and an iron hut. The Greenland settlement the sagas treat as the starting point, and the century in which its writing stops, are in the Hvalsey room. The rune stones are a different question, in Runestones in America.
Photo tour
5 photographs, unedited. On a phone, swipe the row. Choose one to look closely.
- No openly licensed photograph of the bronze pin, the spindle whorl, the iron nails, the butternuts, or the butternut burl was found. Those pictures are Parks Canada's.
- No unedited Commons photograph of the 1961 to 1968 excavation, with the walls still open, is used. UNESCO says the remains were reburied.
- A Commons photograph of a modern wooden boat inside a shed at the site was left out, so a display hull would not be read as an excavated ship. Wallace's boat reading rests on cut nails and on a floor plank, not on a surviving hull.
- No openly licensed photograph of the Point Rosee trenches is used. The 2017 report is the account of that ground.
See the evidence at the source
These pictures are not openly licensed, so they are not copied onto this page. Each link opens in a new tab.
- Parks Canada's photographs of the ringed pin and the siteThe culture page shows the bronze pin. The licence on that photograph is Parks Canada's, so the picture stays on their page.
What is still unexplained
These sit beside the consensus account, with the same visual weight. None of them is marked solved.
Location and dating
- Location
- The pin is the cluster of mapped hall remains above Epaves Bay, at 51.595 degrees north and 55.533 degrees west, on the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula, facing the Strait of Belle Isle. UNESCO's point for the whole property, 7,991 hectares inscribed in 1978, is 51 degrees 35 minutes 05 seconds north, 55 degrees 33 minutes 00 seconds west. The buried ruins and the reconstructed halls a visitor walks among are the archaeological cluster, not that property centroid. Point Rosee is a different coast, in the Codroy Valley about 2.5 kilometres west-southwest of Millville. Ekman's sun calculation uses 51.6 degrees for this terrace and 47.8 degrees for Point Rosee.
- Period label
- Current consensus — open to revision Parks Canada describes Indigenous use over the past four to five thousand years, with a Norse episode inside it. Wallace places that episode in the early 11th century, with twig dates from 990 to 1050 and a mean of 1014, and with saga voyages shortly after the year 1000, or, on Halldórsson's argument, not much before 1020. The 2021 study's best fit for three fellings is 1021, with other years still inside its test. The culture page's architectural comparison is the decades just before and after the year 1000. The pin type Wallace cites runs about 920 to 1050.
- How this dating was done
- The wide net is radiocarbon on charcoal, wood, twigs, sod, and bone, which Wallace reads material by material because old heartwood and thick turf pull a date earlier than the day of use. The year-resolution clock is the 993 radiocarbon spike inside a ring count, which is dendrochronology with radiocarbon as the marker. Architecture and the bronze pin are typology, set beside Icelandic and Greenlandic houses and a dated pin series. The sun sentence is a latitude argument from a text, the kind of sky reading archaeoastronomy would measure if a wall or a horizon had been surveyed. No such survey of these halls is in the sources used here. Ekman's figures are a calculation from the saga and from a medieval law passage, not a measurement taken on the terrace.
- What could change it
- A waney-edge date on a fourth timber, with the 993 ring in it, would thicken or shift 1021. A radiocarbon measurement on the butternuts themselves would tie the southern cargo to the same year or set it loose. A published horizon survey, with an azimuth, would give the halls a sky reading they do not yet have. At Point Rosee, the soil work and the bog-iron reassessment the 2017 report left pending would speak to the square of dark vegetation and to the ore. They would not, by themselves, rewrite the terrace at Epaves Bay.
What is actually there
- Parks Canada dates the find to 1960, names George Decker, and describes eight sod buildings excavated over the following eight years. A brochure counts seven expeditions from 1961 to 1968.
- UNESCO, inscribed in 1978, describes eight turf buildings, about 800 artifacts, ironworking, and woodworking it reads as likely ship repair, and says the remains correspond to the Vinland sagas.
- Wallace measures hall A at 29 metres and about 102 square metres, hall F at about 160 square metres, hall D at 20.2 metres and about 88 square metres, and estimates 70 to 90 people.
- She counts 99 nail fragments and one whole nail, about 66 percent of the fragments in the F-G complex, and reads the X-rays as boat nails. Parks Canada's map estimates one smelt, enough iron for about 100 to 200 nails.
- Three butternuts and a cut butternut burl lay in the carpentry waste. Wallace places the tree's northern limit near 47 degrees north, in New Brunswick and the St. Lawrence valley.
- Her twig dates run from 990 to 1050, mean 1014. The 2021 study's best fit for three metal-cut trees with bark edge is 1021. Other years from 1019 to 1022 pass its test for at least one tree.
- A bone once called pig is later called seal. A stone called a lamp is later read as a door socket. A building called a sauna is later read as an ordinary hut, with one associated date after the Norse layer.
- Parks Canada describes Indigenous presence over four to five thousand years. Wallace lists cultures before and after the Norse layer and argues the terrace was not shared during the Norse stay.
- The 2017 Point Rosee report says the bog iron and the turf features are natural, and that the seasons found no Norse presence and no human activity there before the historic period. It also says the wider Codroy Valley is still worth surveying.
- No published find list used here includes a runic inscription.
Open questions
| Question | Status |
|---|---|
| Is this terrace Straumfjord, Leif's houses, Vinland itself, or a camp the sagas do not name? | Open. Wallace argues the first, and a gateway. Ingstad's published reading is Leifsbúðir. The sun-latitude readings put the saga's measured place farther south. |
| Were the three trees cut in 1021? | Open inside a narrow band. That year is the study's best fit for all three. 1019, 1020, and 1022 also pass for at least one piece. |
| How many winters, and why are the halls empty? | Open. Wallace argues years rather than decades, and an orderly leaving. A third winter in Erik's saga, and a series of voyages, are the longer reading. |
| Where did the butternuts come from, and is there a southern camp? | Open. The nuts and the burl are in the waste. Wallace places the harvest in northeastern New Brunswick. No second excavated camp has been published there. |
| Does the shortest-day sentence describe this latitude? | Open. Geelmuyden's azimuth reading gives a northern limit near 49 degrees 55 minutes. Aall's clock reading gives about 41 degrees 24 minutes. This terrace is near 51.6 degrees. |
| What should a reader do with Point Rosee? | The 2017 report's recommendation is that the tested areas are not a Norse settlement. The same report leaves the Codroy Valley, a square of dark vegetation, and a pending ore study on the table. |
The current narrative
Where publication stands today. It is the best-supported reading, and it is open to revision. It is not a verdict.
The current narrative — open to revision
A winter base and a gateway
Wallace's papers, Parks Canada's site map, and UNESCO's listing describe the terrace as a Norse base of the early 11th century, used over winters, where boats were repaired and iron was made once, and from which people went south. Wallace's name for it is Straumfjord, inside a Vinland that also includes the Gulf. Hóp, the grape and lumber camp, is farther south. The 2021 study's best fit places three fellings in 1021, which she and her coauthors read as activity in that year.
What supports this
- Eight sod buildings match Icelandic and Greenlandic plans of the period, with storage, a smithy, a furnace, and a lean-to where most of the cut nails lay.
- There is no byre, no enclosure, and no grazing disturbance in the tests Wallace reports, and the food bone she accepts is seal and whale. A bone once called pig was reidentified as seal.
- Three butternuts and a cut burl are not Newfoundland trees. Wallace places their range at the same northern edge as wild grapes.
- The Strait of Belle Isle, Belle Isle, and currents she cites at 0.4 metres per second are her match for the saga's fjord of currents.
- Thin middens, a single smelt, and no repairs are her case that the base was real and brief.
- Halldórsson's saga argument, not much before 1020, sits next to the 1021 best fit.
What pushes back
- Ingstad's reading, as Brown's review of the Ingstads' book states it, is that the site is Leifsbúðir, the main settlement, not a gate to a Vinland somewhere else.
- The 1970s brochure's account of his search treats the grapes as possibly berries, so the wine-land need not lie south of this latitude.
- Ekman's azimuth arithmetic puts the saga's shortest-day sun below the horizon at 51.6 degrees. Geelmuyden's limit is 49 degrees 55 minutes.
- Larsson and Barnes, as Wallace notes, have read the site as a settlement the sagas do not name.
- Erik's saga, in the translation she uses, includes a third winter, and the Greenlanders' saga sends several expeditions. A "few years" has to hold that sequence, or the sequence belongs to a longer stay.
- The 2021 paper itself records years other than 1021 that pass the same test.
What would settle it
A new plan of the walls would not, by itself, choose among Straumfjord, Leifsbúðir, and an unnamed camp. A southern site with Norse buildings, grapes or butternut wood in place, and a date that meets the 993 ring would give Hóp a location. A felling year that moved off 1021 by more than the years already inside the test would move the clock. The room's part is to keep Wallace's package, which is the reading the site's own publications now print, beside the readings that use the same walls differently.
Emerging narratives
Other published readings. Each may be right. None is adopted here unless the evidence carries it.
An emerging narrative
Leif's houses, and Vinland itself
Helge Ingstad's reading, as the 1970s brochure and as Stuart Brown's review of the Ingstads' book describe it, is that L'Anse aux Meadows is Leifsbúðir, the camp in the sagas, and the main Norse settlement in the west. The brochure says he took the sailing times as far as northern Newfoundland and treated the grapes as possibly large red berries. On that reading the terrace is Vinland, not a doorway to it.
What supports this
- The site sits where a ship from Greenland, passing Markland, would meet the Strait of Belle Isle, a landmark Ingstad could search for.
- The buildings are substantial winter houses, which the culture page compares with Iceland and Greenland around the year 1000, and the finds include women's tools as well as a smithy.
- The brochure's 16 early radiocarbon samples averaged near 1000, the round year long attached to Leif's voyage.
- Wallace herself allows that hall F could be the hall Leif built, even inside her gateway reading, and the supplement notes that some readers treat Leifsbúðir, Straumfjord, and Hóp as three different places while others combine them.
- A meadow reading of the name, which the Vinland project page describes, would not require grapes at this latitude. The brochure's berry reading is the version tied to Ingstad's search.
What pushes back
- Wallace argues the layout is a base, not a farm. No byres, no domestic animals in the bone she accepts, and butternuts from south of Newfoundland.
- The Vinland project page argues that the long í, and the spelling Vijnland in Flateyjarbók, mean wine, and that a meadow name would have been formed differently.
- Ekman and Geelmuyden place the shortest-day observation south of this terrace, which is a problem if this terrace is the camp the sentence describes.
- The 2021 best fit of 1021 is a little later than the round year 1000, unless Halldórsson's "not much before 1020" is the saga clock one uses.
- UNESCO's sentence is that the camp corresponds to the voyages, and that people went farther south. That is the gateway reading, printed on the listing.
What would settle it
The Ingstad reading would be strengthened by a grape or a butternut that belonged to this latitude in the 11th century, or by a saga passage that put Leif's houses on a strait at the tip of a great island and nowhere farther south. It would be weakened by a second camp, farther south, with the same Norse buildings. Neither of those has been published. The berries, the meadow name, and the wine name remain three ways through the same word.
An emerging narrative
Vinland farther south than this terrace
One published use of the sun sentence, and some published uses of the climate, put the Vinland of the sagas south of Epaves Bay. On that reading these halls are a gateway, or a camp the sagas never name, and the wine-land is another coast. Wallace's own Hóp is a southern camp. The difference is that she still calls this terrace part of Vinland. The readings in this card move Vinland itself off the terrace.
What supports this
- Storm reports Geelmuyden's limit. North of 49 degrees 55 minutes, the shortest-day sun is not up at the azimuth they take from Grágás. Ekman recalculates 49.9 degrees, and at 51.6 degrees he finds the sun 1.2 degrees below the horizon after refraction.
- Storm also reports Aall's clock-hour result, 41 degrees 24 minutes 10 seconds, which would place the sentence far south of Newfoundland.
- Wallace notes that Bergþórsson and Larsson have found this coast too harsh for Straumfjord and have preferred southern New Brunswick or eastern Nova Scotia.
- She notes that Larsson and Barnes have called the site an anonymous settlement, unmentioned in the sagas.
- Butternuts do not grow here. Any reading that wants the nuts and the grapes in one place has to go south of the terrace to find both.
What pushes back
- Wallace's parallels for Straumfjord are physical. A strait, an island at its mouth, strong currents, and a base built for winter. She argues the 11th-century winters here were mild enough, citing a warming around the year 1000, that the saga's outdoor grazing is not absurd.
- The Vinland project page, and Wallace, argue the name means wine, and then put the wine at Hóp while keeping the base in the north as part of the same country.
- Parks Canada and UNESCO present this site, not a southern camp, as the place that corresponds to the voyages.
- Aall's 41 degrees and Geelmuyden's 50 degrees cannot both be the sentence. A reader who moves Vinland has to say which use of the words is doing the moving.
- No Norse buildings have been published at the Miramichi, at Chegoggin, or at the latitude Aall calculated. Point Rosee, farther south on Newfoundland, is the tested candidate, and the 2017 report does not keep it.
What would settle it
The sun sentence can be settled, as far as a text can be, by a philological agreement on whether eykt is a direction or an hour, published against the Grágás passage and the saga manuscripts. A latitude from that agreement either includes this terrace or it does not. Archaeology would still have to find the southern camp, if the sentence and the halls are not the same place. Wallace's case is that the nuts are the southern camp's cargo, already in the bog.
An emerging narrative
A longer stay than a few years
The buildings are a lot of work, the sagas describe more than one winter, and the culture page's word is colony. A longer occupation is the reading that takes the third winter, the series of voyages, and the 70 to 90 berths as a stay measured in more than Wallace's "years rather than decades," or at least as the whole saga sequence rather than one smelt and one season of carpentry.
What supports this
- Wallace's own labour estimate is 60 people for two months or 90 for six weeks, and her sleeping-space estimate is 70 to 90. That is a settlement effort, even if it was brief.
- Erik's saga, in the Jones translation she quotes, spends a third winter at Straumfjord. The Greenlanders' saga sends several expeditions that use the same houses.
- The culture page calls the place a colony and the people settlers, and it compares the buildings with Iceland and Greenland just before and after the year 1000, which is a settlement comparison.
- Year-round construction, which Wallace stresses, is what a crew builds when it intends to stay through winters, not what a party raises for a week.
- The replicas' 15-year repair cycle is an analogy from modern copies. A milder 11th-century winter, which Wallace also argues for, would change how fast a sod roof failed.
What pushes back
- The middens are small. 125 unburnt bone fragments and 315 burnt ones, no phosphate concentration, slight floors, and carpentry waste she reads as a single episode.
- No repair and no rebuilding. She expects renovation to show by about 15 years, and she does not see it.
- One smelt, a few kilograms of iron, and a tool kit that was taken away. The supplement adds the lack of a cemetery.
- The sagas, in that supplement, have the expeditions return. A third winter is longer than a season and shorter than a colony that lasts for generations.
- Greenland's early population, in the figures she cites from Lynnerup, is about 400 to 500. She argues it could not spare a permanent daughter settlement.
What would settle it
A sequence of floors, with dates on the upper and the lower, would show whether the halls were lived in once or reopened. A cemetery, or a midden with the volume of a Greenland farm, would lengthen the stay in the ground rather than in the sagas. Until then the short reading and the saga sequence are both published, and they meet in the middle at "more than one winter, less than a lifetime."
Should the current view be reevaluated?
Open to revision
The ridges, the eight buildings, the pin and the whorl and the nails, the butternuts, the 993 spike, and the 2017 sentences about Point Rosee are all published. So are a gateway reading, a Leifsbúðir reading, a sun sentence with two latitudes, a short stay, a third winter, and a find list with no rune. The 2021 study's best fit is a year. It is not, by itself, a name for the terrace or a reason the halls were emptied. The room stays open because a reader can grant the buildings and still have to choose, with the evidence on the page, among the uses and the durations.
What drives this
- Eight sod buildings, a single iron smelt, and about a hundred cut nails, published as a Norse camp of the early 11th century.
- A 2021 best fit of 1021 for three trees, with 1019, 1020, and 1022 still passing the study's test.
- Wallace's gateway and Straumfjord, Ingstad's Leifsbúðir, and sun-latitude limits at about 50 degrees and at about 41 degrees.
- Three butternuts from a tree Wallace says does not grow in Newfoundland, and no second excavated camp at the tree's northern edge.
- A short-stay argument from thin middens, and a longer argument from a third winter and a series of voyages.
- A 2017 report that reads Point Rosee as natural, and that still calls the Codroy Valley worth surveying.
- Find lists that include iron and a bronze pin, and do not include a rune.
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If the contested reading is right
What would follow if a reading that is not the consensus turned out to be true, and what could settle it. This explains the stakes. It does not adopt the reading.
These are Leif's houses, and Vinland itself
The sagas and the ruins would be the same camp, and the grapes in the text would be berries, a meadow name, or a memory attached to this coast. The butternuts would be cargo from a trip that did not require a second base. The sun sentence would need a reading that allows a latitude near 51.6 degrees, or it would belong to a different paragraph than the houses.
Why it is still worth a test
A manuscript reading of eykt that keeps the winter sun up at this latitude, published against Grágás, and a botanical case that butternut or wild grape reached the Great Northern Peninsula in the 11th century.
Vinland, as the sun sentence locates it, lies south of this terrace
The halls would be a gateway or an unnamed camp, and the wine-land would be a coast still missing its buildings. Wallace's Hóp in the Miramichi would become the place the sentence might fit. Aall's 41 degrees would move it farther again. Point Rosee would not fill that gap. The 2017 report is the account of why.
Why it is still worth a test
The philological choice between a direction and an hour, and a survey of the southern Gulf aimed at turf walls, bog iron, and metal-cut wood of the same kind as the three dated pieces.
The stay ran longer than Wallace's few years
Greenland would have supported a farther base for more than a season or two, and the empty halls would be a slow ending rather than an orderly close after one episode of building and repair. The third winter would be the minimum, not the surprising extra.
Why it is still worth a test
Dated floors and a refuse study that can be compared, quantity for quantity, with a short-lived Icelandic booth and with a Greenland farm.
Point Rosee was a second Norse site, as the 2015 season proposed
Norse ironworking would have a second Newfoundland location, on a coast where Ekman's sun arithmetic has the midwinter sun up at eykt. The 2017 report reads the ore and the turf as natural and recommends no return for a Norse settlement. That report would have to be set aside by the pending analyses it names, or by finds the trenches did not produce.
Why it is still worth a test
The bog-iron reassessment and the soil work the 2017 report left unfinished, published in a form another laboratory can run.
Sources
- Culture and history, L'Anse aux Meadows Parks Canada
- Maps and brochures, the Norse buildings Parks Canada
- L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site UNESCO World Heritage Centre
- The Norse in Newfoundland: L'Anse aux Meadows and Vinland Newfoundland and Labrador Studies, Birgitta Linderoth Wallace
- Evidence for European presence in the Americas in AD 1021 Nature, 2021
- L'Anse aux Meadows, a site brochure Parks Canada, about the 1970s
- The Viking Discovery of America, a review Newfoundland and Labrador Studies, Stuart C. Brown
- Wine and Vinland, in "Is L'Anse aux Meadows Vinland?" Great Unsolved Mysteries in Canadian History
- The midwinter sun at Viking settlements in North America Martin Ekman, Small Publications in Historical Geophysics 29, 2016
- On the meaning of eyktarstaðr in the Flateyjarbók Vinland account Storm and Geelmuyden, Arkiv för nordisk filologi, 1886
- Studier over Vinlandsreiserne Gustaf Storm
- Point Rosee, Codroy Valley, NL (ClBu-07), 2016 test excavations Parcak, Mumford, and Gerald Penney Associates, 8 November 2017
Image credits
- A replica hall at the historic site. The photographer identifies it as Hall A of the A-B-C complex, built north of the buried ruins. The turf and the timber door are the reconstruction. Wallace uses full-scale replicas here when she estimates how soon a sod hall would need repair.. TravelingOtter, CC BY-SA 2.0. Shown unedited.
- The terrace and the bay on 27 August 2022. The photographer's description names Hay Cove to the left and Norstead, a separate modern reconstruction, off to the right. The buried halls are on this ground. Their outlines are not a readable plan in the frame. UNESCO says the archaeological remains were reburied to protect them.. Gordon Leggett, CC BY-SA 4.0. Shown unedited.
- Turf courses and smoke hoods on a reconstructed building. The photographer's note says these are recreations of the halls dug in the 1960s and then covered. The stacked sod is the feature Wallace and the Ingstad reports both start from. The hoods and the path are the modern site.. Eric Titcombe, CC BY 2.0. Shown unedited.
- A replica hall, a fenced yard, and the sea. The person in the doorway is part of the historic site's presentation. Wallace reports that archaeological tests found no livestock enclosures and no sign of grazing. The fence in the photograph is the reconstruction's.. D. Gordon E. Robertson, CC BY-SA 3.0. Shown unedited.
- The platform along the wall is the kind of bench Wallace describes for sleeping and sitting. The clothes, the shield, the horns, and the pots are the reconstruction's furnishings. Her reading of the departure is that household inventory was taken away.. D. Gordon E. Robertson, CC BY-SA 3.0. Shown unedited.