Turkey rooms

Zimzim hill, northeast of Van, Turkey

Toprakkale

7th century BCE (the Urartian citadel called Rusahinili)

An offering table from the temple of Haldi at Toprakkale, now in Istanbul. The stone is the dark volcanic rock the 1880 diggers called trap rock. The file dates the piece to the 7th century BCE. Osama Shukir Muhammed Amin, CC BY-SA 4.0. Shown unedited.

The first Urartian citadel anyone dug is a rock above Van, and the dig that opened it kept the stone and threw away the brick. A letter from May 1880 already calls the temple blocks dark trap rock, perfectly hewn. That is the hard stone. It belongs to the temple of Haldi.

Why this is extraordinary

Before anyone had a clear picture of Urartu, objects from the Van region were already on the market, and in 1877 that trail led a British Museum dig to a rock northeast of the city. The place is Toprakkale, and the Urartian name attached to it is Rusahinili, the city of Rusa. A Turkish heritage account attributes the founding to Rusa II, whose reign falls in the seventh century BCE, when this hill served as a second seat beside Tushpa, the citadel on the lakeshore. The first season that actually opened the ground, in 1880, was short, supervised from a distance, and hard on the architecture. Mudbrick was treated as earth. What the diggers kept was stone.

In a letter of 11 May 1880 the man on the hill described a temple built of "the most perfectly hewn blocks of a sort of trap rock of a dark grey colour," which is the hard volcanic stone of this country, cut square, not a mystery metal. South of that temple he found rougher walls and a pavement that gave up ivory and bronze. When the supervisor arrived in July he drove tunnels through the mound looking for more stone, and the mudbrick rooms between the foundations disappeared into the spoil. An altar stood in front of the temple. Floors inlaid with coloured stone survived as objects, which is why a panel of concentric rings can sit in a museum while the rooms that held it cannot be walked.

The hard-stone claim, heard sometimes as if the dark blocks were an older core that Urartu only inherited, has the temple's own masonry to explain it. The 1880 letter already calls those blocks the temple. They are well cut because this kingdom cut basalt and andesite for its gods, the same habit you can see at Ayanis and Çavuştepe, and at Erebuni across the highlands. What the nineteenth century destroyed was the mudbrick that made those foundations into a building. Later claims to have dug the hill for Berlin have themselves been challenged from the Ottoman archives, which is a warning about which object truly came from which trench.

What this changes: Urartu as a museum subject begins on this rock, in a badly recorded dig. The dark stone is the temple. It is not, on the letter that describes it, a leftover from an older people.

Why it matters

If the dark foundation is just Urartian masonry, Toprakkale is a badly excavated capital and a lesson in what early digging destroys. If it were an older core, the kingdom's own temples would have to be re-read as reuse, and the 1880 letter would have to be wrong about what it was standing in.

The pin is the rock northeast of Van, above the plain and within sight of Lake Van. The photographs are an offering table from the Haldi temple, an ivory figure from the same citadel, and an inlaid stone panel filed under the name Rusahinili. No open photograph that this room could confirm as the Van citadel, rather than another Turkish hill of the same name, is used for the skyline.

Photo tour

3 photographs, unedited. On a phone, swipe the row. Choose one to look closely.

An offering table from the temple of Haldi at Toprakkale, now in Istanbul. The stone is the dark volcanic rock the 1880 diggers called trap rock. The file dates the piece to the 7th century BCE. Osama Shukir Muhammed Amin, CC BY-SA 4.0
An inlaid panel filed under Rusahinili, the city's Urartian name. Concentric rings of different stones sit in a pale ground. The 1880 work found mosaic floors; this is the kind of surface that survived when the brick did not. Evgeny Genkin, CC BY 2.5
Ivory from Toprakkale in the British Museum, a bird-headed figure with one arm raised. The southern pavement is where ivory and bronze were found in 1880. The number on the file is the museum's. Zunkir, CC BY-SA 4.0

What is still unexplained

These sit beside the consensus account, with the same visual weight. None of them is marked solved.

Observed in the 1880 letter Dark stone, called the temple Trap rock, in the language of that letter, is the dense volcanic stone, dark grey, cut into the neatest blocks on the hill. The writer was describing the temple he had just opened, not a buried building of unknown age underneath it. A later reader can still ask whether any course is reused. The letter itself does not say so.
The record of the method A city dug as if it were rubble Tunnels were driven through the mound, and mudbrick was discarded because it did not look like architecture to men trained on stone palaces farther south. The plan we have is therefore a plan of what survived that choice, foundations and an altar and a pavement, with the upper storeys already gone before anyone drew them. Ivory and bronze from the southern area are real finds. Their rooms are not.
Open Objects whose trench is now argued Pieces reached museums in London and elsewhere, some bought before any spade, some from the 1880 work. A study in the Ottoman archives has argued that a famous later "excavation" by a Berlin party did not happen as claimed. Provenance, for this hill, is part of the object. A bronze throne rebuilt in a display case can be Urartian and still have a muddy paper trail.

Location and dating

Location
Toprakkale, on the rock northeast of Van, Turkey. The pin is the citadel, Rusahinili.
Period label
Current consensus — open to revision Urartian, with the founding attributed to Rusa II in the seventh century BCE by the heritage account. Temple objects have also been placed in the later eighth or the seventh century. Current consensus on an Urartian citadel and a Haldi temple — open on which course might be reused, and on the paper trail of individual museum pieces.
How this dating was done
The date is historical and stylistic. It comes from the royal name Rusahinili, from the Haldi temple, and from the art of the ivories and bronzes, not from a radiocarbon sample of the trap rock. The stone is older than the cutting by the age of the lava.
What could change it
An inscription in a foundation course naming an earlier king, still in the wall, would move the temple. A mudbrick sample nobody kept cannot now be dated.
Published ranges, drawn as bars. A bar is a claim about a span, not a point.
Rusa II, as the heritage account has it
685 BCE660 BCE645 BCE
  • Rusa II, as the heritage account has it. The Turkish culture portal's dates for Rusa II, the king it credits with founding Rusahinili. Not a radiocarbon span.

What is actually there

Open questions

Question Status
Is every dark block the temple, or is any of it reused? The 1880 letter calls the blocks the temple. Reuse is not what that letter reports.
Which museum piece came from which trench? Open. Some objects were bought before the dig.
Can the mudbrick city be reconstructed? Only from letters and from what the stone foundations imply. The upper walls were not saved.

The current narrative

Where publication stands today. It is the best-supported reading, and it is open to revision. It is not a verdict.

The current narrative — open to revision

An Urartian temple of hard local stone

Toprakkale is Rusahinili, an Urartian citadel of the seventh century with a Haldi temple built of well-cut dark volcanic stone, dug badly in 1880 so that the mudbrick city is mostly gone.

What supports this

  • The heritage account names Rusa II and the city-name Rusahinili.
  • The 1880 letter describes the temple in precisely those dark, well-hewn blocks.
  • Ivory, bronze, an altar, and inlaid floors match the fittings of Urartian sanctuaries.

What pushes back

  • The dig discarded the brick, so the upper building is an argument from foundations.
  • Some famous objects were on the market before any trench, so a museum label is not always a context.

What would settle it

The citadel and the temple hold. The caution is provenance, not a second civilization under the floor.

Emerging narratives

Other published readings. Each may be right. None is adopted here unless the evidence carries it.

An emerging narrative

The dark stone is an older core

The perfectly cut volcanic blocks are older than the Urartian mudbrick, a core the kingdom found and reused.

What supports this

  • The blocks are conspicuously well cut, which is what tempted the idea.
  • The brick and the stone were treated differently by the diggers, so they can look like two eras even when they are one building.

What pushes back

  • The letter that praises the blocks identifies them as the temple just found, not as a surprise underneath it.
  • The same hard-stone habit appears at other Urartian temples of this kingdom.

What would settle it

A reuse is always possible in a long-lived fortress. It is not what the first report says it saw, and it is not required by the stone.

Should the current view be reevaluated?

Consensus holds well

Rusahinili and the Haldi temple hold. The open edges are which museum object sits in which trench, and whether any single course was reused. The dark stone does not, by itself, ask for an older people.

What drives this

  • A royal city-name and a seventh-century founding in the heritage account.
  • An 1880 description of the temple in dark trap rock.
  • A dig that kept stone and lost brick.

This is the museum’s own weighing of the evidence. It is not a visitor vote, and it is separate from the slider.

Weigh it yourself

Anonymous. Nothing here is stored except on this browser. Your lean does not change the assessment beside it.

An Urartian temple of hard local stone Unsure The dark stone is an older core

If the contested reading is right

What would follow if a reading that is not the consensus turned out to be true, and what could settle it. This explains the stakes. It does not adopt the reading.

A course of the temple is reused from an earlier building

The hill would have a longer building history than Rusa II, and one wall would be a quotation. The ivories and the altar would still be Urartian unless their own context moved.

Why it is still worth a test

A block still in place with an earlier inscription, or a joint that shows an old face recut.

Sources

  1. Archaeology of Destruction, Toprakkale Iraq. The 1877–1880 digs, the trap-rock temple letter, and the archive argument about later claims.
  2. Toprakkale Türkiye Kültür Portalı. Rusahinili and Rusa II.

Image credits